Considered to be the most difficult of all trails in Europe, the Fra Li Monti (Corsican for 'across the mountains', and also more commonly known as the GR 20) is a footpath that traverses the Mediterranean island of Corsica from north to south along its spiny mountainous backbone, reaching a maximum altitude of 8,551 feet.
It demanded thousands of feet of elevation change every day, totaling 44,475 ft of gain and 44,549 ft of loss. Between the northern starting point at Calenzana to the finish at Conca in the south, there were hidden mountain lakes, expansive sea views, rugged and rocky cliffs, and remarkable panoramas.
Even though I had survived hiking in the Himalayas, this was definitely the hardest thru-hike I have ever done. It took me 13 days to complete it, over a distance of 131 miles.
I arrived on the island of Corsica yesterday, ready to start a long-awaited trek. My starting point was Calenzana, where I grabbed a quick dinner with a few other hikers staying at the same gîte. The night that followed was restless, filled with anticipation for the early morning start. I could hardly wait to return to the mountains and immerse myself in the rugged beauty that Corsica promised...read more.
I had thought the second day on the trail would be easier, but Corsica had other plans. Last night was surprisingly quiet for a backpacking campground, and I woke early to take advantage of the comfortable temperatures. I had brought a mini thermometer along to track how well my sleep system performed, and it seemed to be doing its job. I had hoped to catch the sunrise, but it was hidden behind a ridge of mountains, so I quickly packed my gear and prepared for the day with a simple European breakfast of yogurt, bread, and jam...read more.
Rain greeted us overnight, sending campers scrambling to pull hanging laundry and backpacks inside their tents. I was up early, packed, and on the trail by 7 a.m., ready to face another challenging day. Just like the previous days, the trail started steep and required plenty of bouldering, testing both balance and stamina...read more.
Today was the longest day on trail so far, both in mileage and time. The hotel breakfast buffet was incredible and exactly what I needed to fuel up: eggs, sausage, and plenty of bread set me up for the climb ahead. With a full belly, I packed my gear and hit the trail, ready to face the biggest challenge yet...read more.
Today promised to be an easier day than yesterday, and I started it with a breakfast of hot chocolate and bread with butter. I felt energized and ready to move quickly as we left the Auberge and headed onto the trail. The path wound through the trees and along rocky sections, offering plenty of lookout points to admire the expansive forested valley below. Small rivers fed by waterfalls crossed our path, and several fallen trees added some natural obstacles along the way...read more.
I started the day with breakfast while watching the sun rise over the mountains, and by 7:00 am we were on the trail. The first part of the hike was a gentle introduction, winding through open woods with plenty of clearings that offered beautiful views of the surrounding peaks. The path was mostly flat for nearly three miles, and even the sections that required some ascending were easy enough to enjoy without feeling strained...read more.
Day seven started with a chilly morning that hinted at the long day ahead. The trail out of the refuge led us through boggy ground before beginning the climb toward a distant mountain ridge. The sun was still rising, leaving the trail in shadow as we carefully navigated shrubs and rocks. At one point we took a wrong turn and had to backtrack, but eventually we reached the top after about two hours. The stony summit offered a well-earned break, with a dizzying drop stretching out below us...read more.
I slept reasonably well despite the persistent wind, bundling up with pants over my shorts and a pullover to stay warm. The temperature dropped to 53˚F, and the wind made it feel at least 15 degrees colder, but my sleep system and tent held up perfectly. Breakfast was jam on toast with chocolate milk, and I was treated to a beautiful cloud inversion: a rare and stunning sight in the early morning...read more.
I woke up while it was still dark, and the campsite was damp with condensation from clouds that had rolled in overnight. Packing up was quick since today ended at a hotel, and I was looking forward to a warm shower and dry clothes. The ascent out of the refuge was steep, and a fog slowly crept in, obscuring the trail, but the views from the top made it worth every step. From that high vantage point, I watched clouds roll over the ridge below while the sun shone behind them, creating the most stunning cloud inversion I have ever seen. I lingered there for a long time, completely captivated...read more.
Sleeping in felt amazing this morning, though breakfast at the hotel was as plain as the refuges. It started raining while I ate, which delayed my departure by about an hour, but as soon as the rain stopped I was back on the trail. The southern sections of the trek are noticeably easier, with wide, well-maintained paths and gentle terrain. Rivers and waterfalls were overflowing from the recent rains, which made some crossings tricky, but it didn't slow me down too much...read more.
Today was a relentless up-and-down kind of day, with nearly eight hours on the trail. The morning started wet, and I hurried through breakfast to get moving. The first stretch climbed steeply through the woods before leveling out into bright green fields crossed by a gentle river. The trail switchbacked to a Col, and by the time I reached the top, the wind was fierce and icy, forcing me to pull on my windbreaker for the first time this trip...read more.
The night was long and uncomfortable, with howling wind and persistent rain. I couldn't fully stretch out in the tent, so I curled up at odd angles just to get some rest. Thankfully, by morning the sun was shining, and the tents kept out all signs of the previous night's storm. It felt good to start the day in sunlight rather than the damp gloom I'd slept through...read more.
Last night was one of the scariest I've had on the trail. Horses wandered into the campsite after everyone had gone to sleep, passing dangerously close to my tent. The full moon lit the area just enough to keep them from running into anything, but when dogs started barking, the horses bolted and galloped through the camp. I spent much of the night wide awake, heart racing...read more.
