Day Eleven: Fog, Wind, and Endless Ridges
Today was a relentless up-and-down kind of day, with nearly eight hours on the trail. The morning started wet, and I hurried through breakfast to get moving. The first stretch climbed steeply through the woods before leveling out into bright green fields crossed by a gentle river. The trail switchbacked to a Col, and by the time I reached the top, the wind was fierce and icy, forcing me to pull on my windbreaker for the first time this trip.
From the Col, the Mediterranean Sea stretched out in the distance, and the clouds rolled past in dramatic waves. I passed Refuge Prati, which looked incredibly uninviting, and later learned it was miserable inside, with many hikers forced into the eating area to sleep because the tents could not withstand the wind. The trail ahead twisted along ridges and narrow paths, often with steep drops on one side, and the fog reduced visibility to about thirty feet, making even familiar terrain feel treacherous.
Climbing over fields of loose boulders in thick fog was particularly nerve-wracking, but eventually the clouds lifted and revealed the trail stretching out ahead. The route wound along a mountain ridge and through trees, looping through Col after Col before finally beginning the descent to the refuge. The camping area was exposed, and I had to navigate past some territorial horses before finding a spot to pitch my tent.
The wind made things challenging. While waiting for dinner, the tent collapsed under gusts, forcing me to reinforce the stakes with rocks and add extra guy-lines. Dinner itself was outdoors in a drizzle, as the refuge lacked a covered eating area. Fortunately, I was able to purchase a sturdier tent on-site, which made the rest of the night much more comfortable.
Despite the difficult conditions, the views and terrain made the day worthwhile. From foggy ridges to sunlit clearings, the trek continues to be a spectacular mix of challenge and beauty. Even the frustrating moments, like battling the wind and navigating slippery boulders, became part of the adventure. Each Col conquered reminds me why I came here, and I fell asleep feeling accomplished and ready for the next day.