Day Twelve: Green Hills and Cloudy Peaks
The night was long and uncomfortable, with howling wind and persistent rain. I couldn't fully stretch out in the tent, so I curled up at odd angles just to get some rest. Thankfully, by morning the sun was shining, and the tents kept out all signs of the previous night's storm. It felt good to start the day in sunlight rather than the damp gloom I'd slept through.
The trail began with some moderate scrambling along mountain ridges. From a distance, these ridges looked easy, but once I reached them, the ups and downs were deceptively challenging. I even lost the trail a couple of times, as markers were difficult to spot in the dense vegetation. Once past the ridges, I raced down muddy switchbacks and entered a stretch of rolling green hills dotted with boulders. The southern portion of the trail lived up to its reputation for being easier, and I made great time.
Rivers and streams cut across the path, creating some fun watery crossings. The greenest landscapes of the trip appeared here, and I was grateful for the gentle pace. The trail then meandered through local farmland and past small non-refuge accommodations. I considered stopping for breakfast but the places weren't open to non-guests yet, so I pressed on. Later, I wandered through lush vegetation and stumbled across an abandoned house before finally finding the trail markers again, which took some effort.
After this, the trail turned to dirt and gravel roads and led me through verdant landscapes with rivers running alongside. I attempted to stop for lunch at a local spot, but the kitchen wasn't open yet, so I kept moving. The afternoon brought a steady ascent along hilly terrain, dotted with boulders and picturesque views. I was surprised to find one of the highest points in the southern section, nearly 6,500 feet above sea level, shrouded in clouds. The descent was brutal after a long double-stage day, and my knees were feeling every step, but I still made it to the refuge an hour ahead of schedule.
Dinner was satisfying, and my gear stayed dry despite the clouds moving in. The refuge offered little in communal spaces, and temperatures dropped quickly, so I spent most of the evening reading in my tent. Even with the challenges, the day had a satisfying rhythm of climbing, descending, and soaking in the quiet beauty of the southern mountains.