Corsica Day Four: Climbing to the Clouds
Today was the longest day on trail so far, both in mileage and time. The hotel breakfast buffet was incredible and exactly what I needed to fuel up: eggs, sausage, and plenty of bread set me up for the climb ahead. With a full belly, I packed my gear and hit the trail, ready to face the biggest challenge yet.
Since we had descended yesterday to reach Ascu Stagnu, it meant an immediate uphill start this morning. The climb began through a beautiful forest with clear views of the surrounding mountains and a well-maintained trail. There was a tricky river crossing where I hopped across the rocks, and soon after the terrain became steep and rocky, requiring scrambling and chains in some sections. Many hikers were struggling on these spots, but the views kept me motivated.
After about 90 minutes, I reached the first of two cols for the day and explored the plateau, discovering a small waterfall where I refilled my water. It was buggy, so I didn't linger long before heading toward the high point of the day. The final climb involved switchbacks on loose scree, walking over snow patches, and scrambling through slippery snowmelt with no chains to assist. It was challenging, but the moment I reached the summit, the view was worth every step. Clouds floated below me, and I could see the trail stretching ahead across the mountains, teasing the tricky descent that awaited.
The descent was just as demanding as the climb, with loose scree and sandy dirt making footing precarious. Some sections were narrow and exposed, requiring careful focus, and it took about two hours to safely reach lower ground. By mid-afternoon, I arrived at Auberge U Vallone, a charming spot with excellent dining views. I set up my tent near some trees to dry my gear, enjoyed a hot shower, and watched hikers take dips in a nearby icy waterfall pool.
Dinner was veal, a first for me on this trek. Corsican cuisine has been tempting my vegetarian habits, and I didn't regret the indulgence. My feet were starting to develop blisters, so I wrapped them as best I could, and I resolved to switch to more durable socks and hiking shoes moving forward. Despite the challenges, today was an incredible day of climbing, scrambling, and breathtaking scenery.