Seventeen Miles and Mousse
Sleeping in felt amazing this morning, though breakfast at the hotel was as plain as the refuges. It started raining while I ate, which delayed my departure by about an hour, but as soon as the rain stopped I was back on the trail. The southern sections of the trek are noticeably easier, with wide, well-maintained paths and gentle terrain. Rivers and waterfalls were overflowing from the recent rains, which made some crossings tricky, but it didn't slow me down too much.
I reached the Col above Vizzavona in just one and a half hours. The wind was fierce up there, nearly blowing my hat away, and I spotted several bright orange-and-black Fire Lizards sunning themselves along the trail. My energy was high, and I pressed on until I arrived at Capenelle, the original destination for the day. This ski lift area wasn't the most scenic place to camp, but it is known for its pizza, and I took a long lunch to enjoy a massive, delicious slice.
After Capenelle, the trail remained flat and easy, with occasional gentle ascents and descents. I passed several abandoned refuges, wandered through pine-wooded mountainsides, and caught sweeping views of the valley. The route even included a short stretch along a road, though most of the day was spent surrounded by forest. At one point, I realized I hadn't seen anyone else on the trail for quite a while.
The rain returned off and on, but the canopy of trees kept me mostly dry. Despite the dreary weather, I had plenty of energy and was making excellent progress. Eventually, after about an hour of uncertainty, I came across Bocca di Verdi, an official refuge reachable by road. I considered pushing on toward a more rustic campsite, but after 17 miles of hiking and with the next refuge two hours away, I decided to stay.
Bocca di Verdi was cozy and inviting. I pitched my tent under the tree cover, giving me a flat, sheltered spot, and then headed to the main building to read in front of the fireplace. Dinner was hearty, and dessert was chocolate mousse once again. The sun kept trying to peek out from behind the clouds, and the wind promised a lively night in the tent. One of my socks now has a heel hole, but it is a small concern compared to the joy of finishing a full day on this trail.