NepalAnnapurnaCircuit +BasecampOct 19th - Nov 6th, 2019

Sleep did not come easy last night. The hostel in Pokhara was full, and the other guests stayed up late and snored loudly. Groggy and hungry, I gathered my things and packed outside to avoid disturbing anyone. The early morning meant no taxis were running, so I walked the ten minutes to the bus station, regretting taking a taxi the day before. A small food stand offered coffee, pastries, and a banana, which I devoured while waiting for the bus to Besishar...read more.

Day two on the trail started with a proper breakfast, a welcome change from yesterday's pastries. Eggs, sausage, and fresh bread fueled us for the day ahead, and everyone had slept well the night before. Without the pressure to get moving early, we took our time leaving the village and soaking in the morning air...read more.

Today was filled with sun and some of the best mo-mo we've had on the trail so far. The terrain was varied, alternating between long flat stretches and constant elevation gains. We left Jagat and steadily climbed, following the side of a deep valley that offered a mix of lush scenery and small waterfalls along the way...read more.

Today, the mountains finally started to reveal their snow-covered peaks, giving us a glimpse of what was ahead. We crossed another suspension bridge out of town and entered thick forests, a mix of conifer and deciduous trees. A welcoming arch over the trail reminded us we were on a journey meant to be savored...read more.

We left Chame after a hearty breakfast, the sun already high above us as we followed the fast-flowing river that has accompanied us since the beginning of the trek. Shortly after setting off, we passed a monument declaring "Buddha was born in Nepal," a reminder of the deep cultural history surrounding the trail...read more.

Sunrise in Upper Pisang greeted us with crisp air and breathtaking views of the Annapurna massif. As we packed up, we passed villagers carrying large bundles of sticks and hay up from Lower Pisang, a reminder of how hard life is in these mountains. Crossing a short suspension bridge brought us to a steep series of switchbacks that climbed nearly a vertical mile. At roughly 9,000 feet, the ascent was grueling, but the tiny village of Pisang shrinking below us made the effort feel worth it...read more.

Saying goodbye to Nathan was harder than expected. He needed to press on to meet his timeline, which meant skipping the variant route to Tilicho Lake where we planned to spend the night before climbing to the world's highest freshwater lake at 15,500 feet. In the early morning hours, the three of us left Manang and crossed a suspension bridge at the edge of town, the day still quiet and cool...read more.

Stars crowded the cloudless pre-dawn sky as we packed up for our hike to Tilicho Lake at 16,435 feet. The cold made every movement feel heavier than it should have, and starting the day so early took real effort. With headlamps on and breath visible in the dark, we eventually found our way onto the trail...read more.

Today marked our turn back toward Manang and then sharply away from the familiar valley as we aimed ourselves toward Thorong La Pass, the climax of our trek together. There was a quiet sense of transition in the air, the feeling that we were leaving one chapter behind and stepping into something more demanding...read more.

The big day had finally arrived: crossing Thorong La Pass and stepping into the second half of the circuit. While we would lose more elevation than we gained, the challenge of the day was unmistakable. We ate breakfast quickly, eager and a little anxious to get moving...read more.

Our destination today was Marpha, at least for some of us. Katie, a friend from New Zealand, would be leaving the trail early to catch a bus from the town just before Marpha and head back to Pokhara to continue her travels. Veronique stayed behind briefly to call her boyfriend back home, so Katie and I said our goodbyes and started down the trail together...read more.

With the group now reduced to just two, Veronique and I left Marpha and headed toward Ghasa. The day promised a mostly dusty trail, and before long a hopeful dog joined us, trailing behind for a while as if waiting for a handout or some attention...read more.

This was probably the most memorable day of the entire trail, and not for the reasons I would have hoped. My original plan was to stop in Tatopani, but when I arrived it was mostly locals and no other hikers. With the last member of my group heading back to Pokhara, I was about to be completely alone. Instead, I made a last-minute decision to follow an Australian couple who were continuing on toward Ghorepani...read more.

The near-death experience from the night before was deeply humbling, but it also sparked an unexpected sense of energy. I woke up after a long, restorative sleep and walked downstairs to an empty dining hall. Nearly everyone had already left in the early hours to hike up Poon Hill for sunrise...read more.

Well rested and well fed, I left Chomrong the next morning to begin the Annapurna Base Camp trek. I would not make it all the way that day, but I covered a good amount of ground and eventually stopped in a place called Deurali. It felt good to be moving forward again with a clear goal ahead...read more.

The terrain began to change almost immediately after leaving Deurali on the way to Annapurna Base Camp. Green bushes and grasses slowly disappeared, replaced by bare rock faces dusted with thin yellow grasses as the valley narrowed and the mountains closed in around me. With every step higher, the landscape felt more stark and more dramatic...read more.

We woke in the pre-dawn hours, stiff from sleeping on hard mattresses in the cold, and quickly bundled up in all our layers. I joined the others as they headed toward a flat area above the refuges, perfect for watching the sunrise over Annapurna. The early morning stillness, paired with the crisp air, made the anticipation even more exciting...read more.

The last day of my Himalayan adventure was short but peaceful. I set off just after breakfast, following a mostly downhill trail toward a jeep station that would take me back to Pokhara. Before leaving, I took a moment to enjoy the sunrise from my small private balcony, a quiet farewell to the mountains...read more.