High Above Pisang
Sunrise in Upper Pisang greeted us with crisp air and breathtaking views of the Annapurna massif. As we packed up, we passed villagers carrying large bundles of sticks and hay up from Lower Pisang, a reminder of how hard life is in these mountains. Crossing a short suspension bridge brought us to a steep series of switchbacks that climbed nearly a vertical mile. At roughly 9,000 feet, the ascent was grueling, but the tiny village of Pisang shrinking below us made the effort feel worth it.
The trail hugged the side of a sandy-colored mountain dotted with stone homes, ancient temples, and colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind. At a small sparsely populated village, we took a break, surrounded by snow-capped peaks and the muted earth tones of the highlands. Some structures seemed abandoned, while others were still lived in, and we passed small temples dedicated to Buddha along the way.
After hours of hiking, we rejoined the river that has accompanied us nearly the entire trek, walking along a dusty road past grazing yaks. Jeeps kicked up clouds of dust, forcing us to step aside and cover our faces, wishing for neck buffs we hadn't brought. At last, we reached Manang at 11,500 feet just before nightfall. We found a teahouse that felt right, and booked rooms for two nights, preparing for the day-hike to a glacial lake at 15,000 feet that would help us acclimatize before the highest point of the trek.
The next morning, we set off early, water bottles and jackets in hand, retracing our steps from the previous day to reach the trailhead. The hike up was exhausting and cold, taking nearly five hours to reach the lake. The views from that elevation were jaw-dropping, a mix of glaciers, towering peaks, and glinting rivers. The cold was intense, and we couldn't stay long before our fingers began to freeze despite gloves. The hike down separated our group for a time, but we eventually reunited and returned safely to our rooms.
That evening, we visited a small local movie theater hidden behind a bar and watched Everest. It was eerie and humbling to see the mountain on screen as we prepared to go higher than any of us had ever been. The film reminded us of both the awe and danger that lie ahead, making the upcoming days feel all the more real and intense.