Last Sunrise on the Trail
We woke in the pre-dawn hours, stiff from sleeping on hard mattresses in the cold, and quickly bundled up in all our layers. I joined the others as they headed toward a flat area above the refuges, perfect for watching the sunrise over Annapurna. The early morning stillness, paired with the crisp air, made the anticipation even more exciting.
Watching the sun rise was nothing short of magical. The sky shifted from deep blues to soft pinks, and the mountain peaks began to glow golden. The snow at the summits stirred in the light, creating the illusion that the mountaintops were on fire. I stayed for over an hour, completely captivated by the view.
After the sunrise, we headed back to the dining hall for a hot breakfast of eggs and cocoa. I planned to return all the way to Chomrong today, partly because I had already pushed almost to Basecamp in one long hike, and partly because I wanted the comfort of a good room. Others had told me it was possible to make the journey in a single day, so I felt confident in my plan.
The initial part of the trail was slow-going thanks to fresh snow and compacted ice. After about an hour, I was past the snow and moving through the bushes and sparse grasses I had passed the day before. I didn't take many pictures, focused on making good time and motivated by thoughts of a room to myself and some well-earned pizza. I also had a small, irrational fear of encountering tigers, which kept me alert as I moved.
Closer to Chomrong, more people began appearing on the trail, a sign that my early start had put me well ahead of others. The descent was manageable but tiring on my knees, and the final climb up hundreds of stairs to reach the village tested my legs. Along the way, horses blocked my path, and a pair of bulls with large horns rushed down the trail, prompting a quick leap onto a boulder. Heart racing, I continued to the top and finally found a welcoming place to stay with a view of the valley.
I enjoyed my final night on the trail in that room, reconnecting with some people I had met at Basecamp and befriending a father-daughter pair from England. We shared dinner and stories, laughing over cultural differences and accents. Despite the comfort and company, there was a tinge of sadness knowing tomorrow I would leave the mountains behind and return to the busy streets of Pokhara.