Patagonia, ChileTorres delPaine OCircuitFeb 18th - 25th, 2020

Finally, I'm back in South America, back in Patagonia, and ready to tackle the legendary 'O' Circuit. My base for the next 11 days is Puerto Natales, and from there I took a bus to Torres del Paine National Park. This would be my first time thru-hiking a trail while camping every night and carrying all of my own food. My backpack, packed with ultralight gear and tent, probably weighed close to 30 pounds. A hefty load, but worth it for the adventure ahead...read more.

What a way to wake up! The sun was bright, the sky scattered with pink-white clouds, and the tall grasses around my tent glowed golden in the morning light. Everyone else was slowly emerging as well, so it was time to make oatmeal, pack up, and prepare for another day on the trail...read more.

After another successful night of sleep, sheltered from the wind by trees and bushes, we woke to a muddy but manageable morning. My thin groundsheet from the previous night had already seen better days and was tossed, but it turned out we wouldn't need it for the rest of the trip...read more.

My tent's bottom was covered in mud, but luckily only half of it had been affected, so it wasn't too much to worry about. Today's goal was ambitious: reaching Grey's Glacier and crossing the highest point of the trail. As soon as we left Los Perros behind, the climbing began in earnest...read more.

Last night was a rough one. A particularly loud snorer kept me from sleeping, and my earplugs kept falling out. Today promised to be an easier day of hiking, with extra time to explore a side trail that offered incredible views of the mountain near our campsite...read more.

What a windy night it was. Almost nobody slept, except perhaps those who had paid for a bunk in the refuge. Several tents, including my own, were battered by sudden gusts. One of my trekking poles bent with a loud crack that sounded like a distant gunshot. I tied some extra guyline around the center pole to secure it, and it held, allowing me a couple more hours of sleep...read more.

Today promised an incredible mix of terrain: sandy and stony beaches I hadn't expected to encounter in Patagonia, and rolling grassy fields. Our goal was Refuge Chileno, part of the 'W' section of the 'O' Circuit, and the base for anyone aiming to hike to the Towers...read more.

The last day on the trail had arrived, the day of the Towers! I was thrilled to hike up to them for the second time in four years. Sleeping in a bunk bed last night was a real treat, and with everyone getting up at 3 a.m., there were no worries about disturbing anyone...read more.