Patagonia Bound: Day One on the 'O' Circuit
Finally, I'm back in South America, back in Patagonia, and ready to tackle the legendary 'O' Circuit. My base for the next 11 days is Puerto Natales, and from there I took a bus to Torres del Paine National Park. This would be my first time thru-hiking a trail while camping every night and carrying all of my own food. My backpack, packed with ultralight gear and tent, probably weighed close to 30 pounds. A hefty load, but worth it for the adventure ahead.
The trail started with a small hiccup: I took a wrong turn and almost ended up at a maintenance shed. Luckily, I wasn't alone: Charles and Adèle, two Canadian hikers, had also veered off. From that point on, we stuck together, sharing stories and laughs as we explored the park's incredible scenery. Rivers snaked through yellow-green grasslands, snowcapped mountains loomed in the distance, and patches of forest offered welcome shade. The trail itself was gentle, and it took only about three hours to reach our first campground, Serón.
The quiet of the park was otherworldly. Low population density and remote landscapes made every step feel like a step into another world. Along the way, we crossed rivers swollen from last night's rain and paused briefly for a snack on a tree log, swatting mosquitoes while taking in the scenery. Soon enough, a wooden sign announced we had arrived at Campamento Serón.
The campground was impressive: a large communal tent for cooking, raised tents on platforms, hot showers, and full-service bathrooms. Most of us camped in the open field, surrounded by tall yellowed grass, a picture-perfect setting framed by the surrounding wilderness. Rain started as we picked our spots and set up, but my pyramid-style Dyneema tent, lightweight yet windproof, held up brilliantly through an overnight storm that reached near-hurricane strength.
Despite the wild winds, I slept soundly, listening to the occasional crinkle of my ultralight sleeping pad and feeling secure in my little shelter. Day one of the 'O' Circuit was a gentle introduction to the park's beauty, a perfect mix of adventure, camaraderie, and awe-inspiring landscapes. A promising start to what would become an unforgettable journey.