In Northern Italy there is a mountain range known as the Dolomites, and they contain a series of seven trails collectively known as the Alta Via. This is a thru-hike of one of those trails: the Alta Via 1. Winding its way over 65 miles from North to South, this high route reached a maximum altitude of 9,129 feet and took 10 days to complete, while passing through a panorama of jagged ridges, vertical walls, and majestic towers, culminating in some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world.
My friend Cerstin and I caught an early morning shuttle bus from the town where we were staying to Lago Brais, the official starting point of the Alta Via 1. The bus was packed with hikers and their backpacks, so we stood for the ride, eagerly watching the landscape pass by. We were dropped off in front of a hotel at the lake, and it felt like the perfect place to begin our adventure...read more.
Breakfast on the Alta Via 1 was a treat compared to most trekking mornings. Instead of the usual sparse bread and jam, there were eggs and hearty options to fuel the day ahead. Refreshed and well-fed, we left Rifugio Bella and stepped back into the rolling, open terrain of the Dolomites, surrounded by a variety of striking geologic formations. The views felt even more dramatic than the first day, with every turn revealing a new ridge, peak, or rocky outcrop...read more.
Breakfast at the rifugio set the tone for another beautiful day on the Alta Via 1. I took a final stroll around the grounds before packing up, enjoying the overcast sky that still allowed bright sunlight to filter through. The trail led us away from the lake and into the woods, quickly gaining elevation until we emerged above the trees. From there, rolling green hills dotted with rocks stretched as far as the eye could see, and the beginnings of a cloud inversion added a magical touch to the landscape...read more.
Our day began with an immediate climb out of the valley, right past the World War II ruins we had passed yesterday. The ascent took about an hour and a half, and by the time we reached the top, we were walking on patches of snow. The trail offered a little bit of everything, from snowy slopes to colorful mountainsides, and the views only improved as we gained elevation...read more.
Today's hike was a feast for the eyes, with landscapes that felt almost otherworldly. We started the morning under a full moon, enjoying breakfast in the cozy dining room of Rifugio Averu before setting out. The trail required a bit of backtracking, which allowed us to avoid via ferrata ladders that would have demanded helmets and nerves of steel due to the sheer drop-offs...read more.
Today's hike began in a lush pine forest, with sections of the trail strewn with large rocks that made for some fun leap-frogging along the way. The forest was quiet and green, but not particularly dramatic in terms of views or elevation. Once we left the trees and the road behind, the scenery opened up, revealing rolling landscapes and our first real look at the ridge ahead, where old World War II anti-aircraft guns stood as silent monuments...read more.
Our day began with a descent from Rifugio Tissi, retracing part of yesterday's path before heading off in a new direction. We walked briefly along a ridge I've dubbed "The Wall," then entered a small cluster of pine trees before emerging into a cleared valley. Up ahead, a herd of cows ambled lazily through the landscape. Unlike my last encounter with cattle, these cows were completely indifferent to our presence, and we shared the trail with them for a short while before a wire fence marked their boundary...read more.
Waking up early this morning was a rare treat, as I was able to catch the sunrise filtering through the trees. The soft morning light made the trail feel almost magical, and it set the tone for the day ahead. The route offered a mix of forests, mountain passes, and what appeared to be old stone military barracks scattered along the landscape...read more.
Today's hike was all about climbing. We started early, knowing it would be a short day, since our destination was Rifugio Pian de Fontana, the last stop on our trek. After a brief descent, we immediately began ascending toward the cols between mountain peaks. The stone here was a striking white, dotted with dark green vegetation, and the climb demanded frequent breaks to catch our breath. Despite the effort, it was refreshing to be above the forest once again, surrounded by wide-open vistas...read more.
The final day on trail was mostly downhill, and we started early to ensure we had plenty of time to catch the bus back into town. From the rifugio, the path initially stretched laterally across the mountains before beginning a steady descent. I paused to take one last look back at the area, and the scenery felt like something out of a dream, with mossy slopes, rolling peaks, and clouds drifting lazily over the valleys...read more.
