Snow, Rock, and Rifugios
Our day began with an immediate climb out of the valley, right past the World War II ruins we had passed yesterday. The ascent took about an hour and a half, and by the time we reached the top, we were walking on patches of snow. The trail offered a little bit of everything, from snowy slopes to colorful mountainsides, and the views only improved as we gained elevation.
After leaving the snow behind, we rounded a bend along a mountainside covered in red-brown rock and dirt, with anti-avalanche fencing scattered along the slope. Beyond the bend, the landscape transitioned to white stone and green grasses, creating a striking contrast against the mountains. At a junction, our group initially took a wrong turn, but it turned into a memorable detour past a massive boulder and a distant valley, before we returned to the correct path along a narrow strip around a dome-shaped mountain.
Along the way, we encountered more ruins and caves, while the distant mountains presented curious shapes, including one that looked as if its top had been chopped off. White and gray rocks slowly gave way to green fields as we tackled a series of moderate switchbacks. Thick conifer forests marked the end of the ascent, and the trail eventually led us to a restaurant nestled among the trees, with a patio overlooking the forest canopy.
The food stops on this trek continue to impress, thanks to the accessibility of the rifugios. At the restaurant, I enjoyed a beer, a salad, and a burger with fries topped with a fried egg. While it may compromise the feeling of remoteness, having access to full kitchens means hearty meals that energize hikers for the next leg of the journey.
The final portion of the day led us through more forests with occasional glimpses of surrounding mountains and a few road crossings. We ended the day ascending to Rifugio Averu, perched atop a rocky slope with a steep drop-off. The views from the dining hall were incredible, and the meals were some of the best on the trek, complete with hardboiled eggs for breakfast. By the end of the day, it was clear that the trek was not only visually stunning but also wonderfully satisfying for the appetite.