The Lonely End of the West Highland Way: Rain, Reflection, and a Bittersweet Finish
The last day on the West Highland Way brought a mix of rain, gray skies, and the lonely solitude that had marked much of this trek. I was heading for Fort William, my final destination, and though I couldn't say I was sad the hike was ending, I knew today would be a test of endurance. After some searching, I finally found the trail leaving town, beginning with a steep ascent into the hills and mountains before settling into a mostly flat route toward Fort William.
The morning offered glimpses of partly sunny skies, and fjords appeared in the distance, hinting at the Atlantic's presence. The trail wound through a long, narrow valley flanked by scraggly, grass-covered mountains, weaving along the hillside. Exiting the valley, I climbed over small hills and through forests, my pace steady and unbroken, focused entirely on reaching the end. By now, the rain had begun, and my trusty rain jacket stayed on for most of the day.
As I approached the final stretch, Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in the UK, loomed in the distance. A summit attempt would have to wait for another day. The trail gradually descended to mostly flat ground, where I was fully exposed to a downpour, every step soaking my gear. The trail eventually met a sidewalk along a busy road, leaving the hills behind and entering the outskirts of Fort William. The waymarks helped, but I had to pull up Google Maps to locate my hotel and the trail's official endpoint.
Unlike the ceremonious obelisk that marked the start, the West Highland Way concluded quietly: a simple bench, a statue, and a small sign declaring 'The end of the West Highland Way.' The streets were empty, the rain relentless, and no other hikers were around to share the moment. It was a muted, lonely ending to a trek that had been more challenging, and less rewarding, than I had imagined. I headed to my hotel, eager for a warm bed and a chance to dry out.
The following day and a half were spent recuperating. With a small portable heater provided by the hotel, I slowly thawed, grabbed breakfast, and hunted down a souvenir pin for my collection. Reflecting on the experience, the West Highland Way had fulfilled a long-standing bucket-list goal, but it left me mostly disappointed. The journey was far from the idyllic adventure I had imagined, and it forced me to question whether I would ever attempt another thru-hike.