Rain, Solitude, and Spectacular Highlands During Day Five on the Way to Kinlochleven
Today promised a mix of sun and rain as I ventured deeper into the Scottish Highlands. I had a cabin reserved in Kinlochleven for the night; a welcome prospect after anticipating another rain-soaked day on the trail. After a simple breakfast of granola and dried banana slices, I packed up and set off at 8 a.m., ready for whatever the Highlands would throw at me.
The trail began alongside the riverbank where I had camped, with forests providing a pleasant canopy to start the day. Wet conditions from last night made navigating rocks and roots a careful exercise, and before long, the forests gave way to scraggly grasslands with a large lake visible in the distance. Attempts at stopping for a proper breakfast at a nearby bed and breakfast were fruitless, so a quick protein bar kept me moving.
By mid-morning, clouds had thickened, and rain began to fall, gradually intensifying into a steady downpour. I saw very few people along this stretch, and the isolation made the experience feel raw and wild. The mountains surrounding me were magnificent, and walking through this remote landscape with rain lashing down and not another soul in sight was exhilarating in its solitude.
After nearly two hours navigating small passes and remote trails, the path led me to a paved road and The Kingshouse, a trail-side hotel. I spent a restorative hour there, enjoying hot food, changing into dry clothing, and letting my gear begin to dry. A fresh pair of socks and dry clothes instantly lifted my spirits, and by 1 p.m., I was back on the trail, this time under bright sunshine.
The afternoon brought some of the most stunning mountain views yet, with deep blue skies contrasting sharply against dark stone peaks. After 90 minutes of awe-inspiring hiking, the trail began a long descent into Kinlochleven. The entrance to town was less picturesque than the Highlands I had just traversed, exiting near a factory, and I had to rely on Google Maps to navigate to the cabin. Once settled, I laid out my wet gear to dry, enjoyed a hot dinner from my remaining backpacking meals, and looked forward to a well-earned night of rest in a comfortable bed.