Rain, Rocks, and Rugged Beauty: A Wet Third Day on the West Highland Way
Gray clouds greeted me as I emerged from my tent, and a quick check on my phone confirmed what I suspected: rain was on the way. Breakfast was skipped in favor of a few protein bars, and I packed up quickly, donning my rain jacket and polyester joggers for what promised to be a wet day. By 8 a.m., the first raindrops began to fall, soaking the trail but doing little to dampen my spirits. My waterproof backpack and Altra trail runners gave me confidence as I set off along the coastline of Loch Lomond, weaving through green woods and open vistas with the water always in sight.
The morning brought all the charm and challenges of Scotland's trails. Clouds clung to the surrounding hills, and rain slicked rocks demanded careful footing. I passed under the gaze of a pair of mountain goats calmly sheltering by the water and crossed several small wooden bridges spanning flowing streams and waterfalls. Moss-covered ruins dotted the landscape, hinting at forgotten history, while colorful wildflowers and lush foliage brightened the gray day.
After an hour, I arrived at a hotel beside a massive waterfall. A perfect place to rest and dry off. While the kitchen wasn't open, a warm drink and fresh socks were a welcome relief from the cold and wet. An hour later, the rain had slowed, and I continued along the lakeshore, navigating a rocky, slippery path that tested my balance at every step. Flat sections of trail had turned into streams, forcing careful wading through muddy conditions. The persistent downpour and flooded paths made progress slow, but the scenery was stunning, even in the rain.
Eventually, I reached a small hut with beds and a fireplace, tempting as a place to dry off and rest. But as the rainwater began creeping over the threshold, I opted to push onward toward my original destination: Bienglas Farm. Arriving around 4 p.m., I was relieved to find hot showers, a restaurant serving warm meals, and laundry facilities: a hiker's dream after a soaking day. Setting up my tent under a large leafy tree, I quickly changed into dry clothes, showered, did laundry, and settled in at the restaurant with other hikers, sharing stories and passing the time until nightfall.
The relentless rain and cold left me craving comfort, so I decided to book a hotel for the next night. By 9 p.m., I was tucked in, looking forward to a warm bed, dry sheets, and the chance to rest before the trail continued. Despite the day's challenges, the combination of rugged Scottish scenery, wild encounters, and the camaraderie of fellow hikers made it a memorable chapter in the journey.