Day Eight: Conquering Fenetre d'Arpette and Dinner with Flowers
The day started under perfect blue skies, with sunlight streaming through the trees as I hiked through the woods in the early morning. There's something magical about walking through a forest with light filtering down in golden beams, it makes every step feel deliberate and slow. Since I had explored parts of the trail the night before, the first 30 minutes were easy, giving me time to enjoy the scenery and prepare for the bigger climb ahead.
My destination was the Fenetre d'Arpette at 2,665 meters, the second-highest point I'd reach on the TMB. The initial ascent led through woods, then shrubs, low trees, and finally into sparse crabgrass and rocks. Every few minutes I turned around to take in the ever-expanding view, the mountains and valleys stretching farther than I could capture in a single photo. As the vegetation disappeared entirely, the landscape became a raw, rocky terrain, signaling the approach to the day's biggest challenge.
Just below the summit, I faced a massive field of boulders, some the size of camper vans. Unlike previous boulder fields, these moved slightly underfoot, demanding complete focus and careful navigation. I hugged enormous rocks, climbed over others, and constantly searched for the white-and-red trail markers or cairns that would guide me safely upward. Once past this obstacle, I paused in awe at the accomplishment, knowing the scariest part of the climb was behind me.
The final zig-zag path to the summit brought me to Barak and Neta, and together we shared lunch and photos while soaking in the views. But the descent proved even more challenging. The steep, slippery slope required constant attention, with Glacier du Trient stretching to the left and a smooth rock face carved by its life below. I moved quickly, jumping down sections despite bad knees, eager to reach the river below.
By mid-afternoon, we regrouped at a local riverside bar, enjoying the presence of other hikers and locals alike. Our final destination for the day was Refuge du Peuty, an absolute gem. Run by two women who cook with ingredients from their own garden (and even include flowers in dinner!), the refuge offered warmth, good music, and an unforgettable dining experience. It was the perfect ending to a day filled with breathtaking climbs, nerve-testing boulders, and the quiet triumph of reaching the summit.