Day Six: Clouds, Cows, and Swiss Raclette
The morning began under a blanket of clouds as I left the Rifugio, with Mont Blanc teasingly hidden from view. The trail took me past several abandoned buildings, and I couldn't resist exploring each one before descending along the zig-zagging path through the valley. Clumps of evergreens lined one side of the trail, while the stark gray cliffs of rockslides towered on the other. At a quiet river, I paused to snack and enjoy the gentle sound of rushing water, a rare moment of solitude before the ascent to Rifugio Elena.
The wind greeted me fiercely at the Rifugio, howling around every rock and corner, forcing me to layer up before continuing to the Grand Col Ferret. I grabbed a warm sandwich and met up with Barak and Neta for a quick regroup. Outside, the wind made taking photos a challenge, but the anticipation of crossing into Switzerland kept us moving. The climb to the col was relentless, with clouds racing around our feet as we ascended to 2,537 meters, the trails seeming to vanish into nothingness at times.
Crossing into Switzerland brought an unexpected stillness. The wind died, leaving only quiet. Probably the quietest I've ever experienced in nature. The sun began to peek through the clouds, illuminating fresh green mountains and grassy hills. I paused to rest, observing cows slowly herded below and the peaceful rhythm of alpine life. It was a moment to breathe and simply appreciate the world around me.
Descending into the valley brought a surprise fright: a fast-moving cow trotting straight toward me. I jumped out of the way, and in a comedic twist, the cow leapt into the air before continuing down the trail. Thankfully, both of us survived unscathed, and I continued on my way, navigating rivers and lush green hills before reaching the small town of La Fouly. Along the way, I met a group of Irish hikers, and we helped each other find the path after a few minor misadventures.
The evening offered a well-earned respite at Maya Joie, where I stocked up on supplies for the next day. Dinner was an unforgettable Swiss feast of Raclette, the melted cheese served with potatoes, devoured in three hearty servings. We ended the night with a game of Scrabble, full and satisfied, as the sun set behind the mountains. Tomorrow promised a gentler hike with only 500 meters of gain, a welcome reprieve after the challenges of the day.