Ice, Cowbells, and Long Ascents: Day Three to Col des Fours and Refuge Robert Blanc
Reaching the top of the Tour du Mont Blanc highpoints is a surreal experience. At the Col des Fours, 2,665 meters above sea level, nothing but mountains surrounded us. The pedestal marking the highest point gleamed with ice, and the valley below seemed like another world entirely. Today promised a marathon of hiking, but first we soaked in the views and shed our outer layers to enjoy the crisp alpine air.
We left Bonhomme early in the morning, trekking as a small group of three Germans and myself, gradually picking up more hikers along the descent. The trail down was a mix of steep, slanted rocks and slippery patches from water, turning the hike into a constant balance challenge. Rivers cascaded alongside us, and eventually the green valley floor appeared, dotted with cows whose cowbells created a constant jingling soundtrack. Herded by a vigilant farmer and her dog, the cows gave us a memorable encounter in the alpine fields.
The path wasn't always straightforward. We missed a turn and ended up bushwhacking across fields, past abandoned farmhouses, before reconnecting with a paved road that led to Ville des Glaciers. From there, I diverged from the group to tackle the ascent to my next stop: Refuge Robert Blanc. The refuge appeared as a tiny brown dot on a distant mountainside nearly 1,000 meters above me. The climb tested every ounce of energy, with waterfalls crossing my path and cairns guiding me over rocks and switchbacks.
Arriving at the refuge was a relief. The downtime at these mountain shelters can feel long, but the view, fresh alpine air, and camaraderie make it worthwhile. Clouds rolled in before dinner, cloaking the mountainside in mist, while we enjoyed a hearty meal and met fellow hikers. I later discovered I had missed a shortcut across the top of the mountains: the optional trail to Tête Nord de Fours, which would have saved some serious elevation gain. Live and learn.
Being this high, removed from everything below, is intoxicating. But with tomorrow's hike looming, I knew the mountains were not done testing me. Every step, every climb, and every breath reminds me why I keep returning to trails like these.