Boulders, Clouds, and Candlelight: Conquering Col de la Croix on Day Two
Day two of the Tour du Mont Blanc pushed me to heights I'd never reached before. The hike up to Col de la Croix was brutal, and the pictures I'd taken didn't even capture the steepness of the trail. Today was a mix of walking, scrambling, and pulling myself over rocks and boulders, testing every bit of strength and endurance I had. The day began with a descent of 750 meters into Les Contamines, winding through twisting roads and trails. I even got lost twice trying to find the town center, but the charming streets and quaint architecture made the detours worth it.
Leaving the city, the trail followed a shallow path along a river through a forest, dotted with waterfalls and one strikingly deep blue river cutting through its own canyon. The hike steadily became steeper, passing cows, red-roofed chalets, and old stone buildings that reminded me of Torres del Paine in Patagonia. Refuge Nant Borrant provided a short breather before the next push, while Refuge de la Balme marked the beginning of the steep climb to Col du Bonhomme. Pausing to turn back and admire the trail behind me helped put the day's struggle into perspective, as every step revealed breathtaking views.
The final leg to Col de la Croix was intense: narrow paths, boulders, and sheer drop-offs demanded every ounce of energy I had left. By the time I reached the refuge, the clouds were rolling in, reducing visibility to almost zero. The mountain refuge was a true high-altitude hideaway: solar-powered, with limited lighting, cold showers, and dorm-style sleeping. Candlelight and headlamps lit the evening as I joined fellow hikers from Israel, the UK, Canada, Brazil, and Ireland for dinner. Conversation and shared stories softened the hardships of the day.
The sunset was a magical reward, painting a distant mountain in soft purples and the sky in vivid oranges. Despite the physical toll, the serenity of the high mountains was intoxicating. French bread may have been dry, the showers cold, and my legs sore beyond belief but every challenge was part of the adventure. Tomorrow promised even greater elevation gains, and I knew I would need all my energy for what was ahead.
Mountain sleeping, cold showers, and long climbs are hard, but moments like this, where the world spreads out beneath you in clouds and ligh, —make it all absolutely worth it.