Day Ten: Ladders, Lakes, and Laughter. A High-Altitude Adventure
We fueled up early today at 6:30 AM with a surprisingly solid breakfast: corn flakes, a fresh baguette with butter and jam, and even fresh bananas! We sat with Moris and Olga, enjoying the calm before what we knew would be a vertical day.
The Ladders: Not for the Faint of Heart
The ascent began with a brutal challenge: gaining massive elevation over just 4 km. Then, we hit the famous TMB ladders. Poor Adriana had to turn back; the height was just too much for her.
We tucked our trekking poles into our water bottle holders, making us look like we had giant antennae, to keep our hands free for climbing. The wooden slat 'ladders' were definitely the sketchiest part, while the metal ones felt rock-solid. Honestly? It was a blast. We celebrated reaching the top of the ladder section with lunch #1: a well-earned bowl of pasta.
The climb continued toward Lac Blanc. The first lake we passed was beautiful but swarming with gnats. We pushed on to the second lake, which was a stunning, crystal-clear blue. This is clearly a popular spot, it was the most crowded we've seen on the trail yet.
We found the perfect rock to sit on and took the plunge, well, a 10-second toe dip into the glacial water. It was freezing and perfect. For lunch #2 we headed up to the refuge for a coke, a cheese omelette, a salted tomato, and a chocolate crepe. Absolute chef's kiss.
The hike down was a bit of a headache. The trail was packed with day-trippers and kids walking three across. We ended up 'off-roading' to get around the crowds, speed-hiking down with a fast-moving couple from DC.
We finally reached Refuge de la Flégère. It's a great spot with a massive dining area and a dorm that sleeps about 24. After the usual routine of shower and laundry, and some reading, we grabbed beers on the patio.
The highlight of the evening was a rowdy game of 'Asshole' (a card game) with the English family. There was plenty of wine and non-stop laughter; they are just the sweetest people.
Dinner was equally great: carrot and cabbage salad, a delicious cheesy potato dish, and chocolate mousse for dessert. My partner was teased by the whole table for hoarding the extra bread, but hey, a hiker's gotta fuel up! Another incredible day in the books. One step closer to the finish!