Rain and Roads to Olveiroa
Rain followed me for most of the day, but it didn't bother me at all. In fact, the mist and low-hanging clouds put me in an almost meditative mood. Day four of rain in the mornings and probably only the third day of the Camino with a full day of precipitation didn't dampen my spirits. As long as my shoes stayed dry, I was happy. The goal today was Santa Mariña, about 25 kilometers away, but we weren't in a rush now that we knew we had time to spare.
Walking alone gave me the chance to take my time and wander off the trail for photos. Old stone houses, grazing sheep, and quiet roads surrounded me. I even chatted, or tried to, with the local dogs, though they were indifferent at best. At A Peña, I reunited with Mauro and Crissi after a brief stop at a café. A fellow pilgrim offered me some of his leftover Spanish tortilla, which I gratefully accepted. It felt like an obvious choice; wasting food here would be a crime, and we had fully embraced our inner scavengers.
The trek continued through the rain for several hours. Santa Mariña itself was small and uninspiring, with the constant smell of cow pastures lingering in the air. After a short break, I decided to press on, music cranked in my headphones, leaving Crissi and Mauro to fall behind as I walked toward Olveiroa. I eventually paused in Mallón to let them catch up, grabbing some orange juice at a local bar while waiting.
Once reunited, we continued following a group of Texans we had seen along the way, determined to finish the stage in one go. By mid-afternoon we arrived in Olveiroa. After checking out a cheaper Albergue and finding it lacking, we opted for a slightly more expensive option that promised more comfort.
Evening brought some welcome relaxation. We met the Texans at a nearby restaurant, played card games, and watched football. Dinner was simple, and the mood was mellow, but it felt good to pause after a long day of wet walking. Tomorrow, we were planning to head for the ocean towns of Cee and Corcubón, ready for the next chapter of this final stretch.