From Santiago to Finisterre
A full month had passed since we started this journey back in France, a month that now felt like a different world. We left Santiago de Compostela in the early morning rain, pausing just long enough to steal one final glance at the cathedral over the hills. The streets were mostly empty, and a few early pilgrims were beginning to arrive as we made our way through the plaza and out of the city. It was fitting that the start of this next chapter would be accompanied by rain, quiet, and reflection.
Our path quickly led us into forests and rolling hills surrounding the city. The ascent was steady but never harsh, winding through small villages and hamlets tucked into the greenery. Rivers traced our steps, and the canopy of trees provided shelter from the drizzle. It was a day full of natural beauty, with each bend in the trail revealing another peaceful view of northern Galicia.
We arrived at Ponte Maceira, a town perched above the Río Tambre. The medieval bridge here was fascinating to explore, and we waited patiently for the small riverside restaurant that would provide our first stamp toward the Finisterre certificate. While our choice of a leftover fish empanada was less than ideal, the scenery and fresh air quickly erased any lingering regrets, and we pressed on along the trail.
Negreira was our destination for the day, an uphill journey that rewarded us with beautiful vistas and a lively town. We quickly settled into an Albergue perched above a bar and enjoyed a surprisingly cheap lunch of burgers, fries, and beer. In the quiet hours before dinner, I wandered the streets alone, discovering clothing shops and grocery stores in a town that felt busier than its size might suggest. Eventually, we regrouped to enjoy ice cream, dinner, and a soccer game, blending casual indulgence with Camino camaraderie.
Despite the rain and the long hours, it felt good to be back on the trail. Walking after a day off gave me a renewed sense of purpose, and while I was eager to reach the end at Finisterre, I also wished the journey could last forever. Every hill, forest, and village made it clear that the Camino's magic is as much in the steps as it is in the destination.