Fog, Mountains, and Sarria
Galicia feels like paradise, and we ended up covering nearly two stages in one day to avoid another scorching afternoon. A few of us left together in darkness, the fog so thick that our headlamps barely lit the path immediately in front of us. Hiking through the forest with fog curling around the trees was a little eerie, but also mesmerizing. Along the way, we stopped at a statue dedicated to pilgrims atop another mountain, its silhouette rising from the shadows like something out of a dream. Two towns passed quietly: Hospital de la Condesa and Padornelo, completely dark and silent, with only passing cars reminding us of the nearby road.
As the sun rose, the sky transformed. Clouds ahead shifted from pale gray to brilliant whites and soft pinks, while the clouds behind us glowed as if set on fire. We reached Alto do Poio for a much-needed break and food. A huge dog demanded attention, resting its massive paw on my arm, and I would have fed it table scraps if the owner hadn't called it away. Meanwhile, Crissi and Mauro drifted into a deep conversation as I lagged behind, stopping to capture the breathtaking mix of moss, stones, trees, and fog during my descent alone.
By noon, we had arrived in Triacastela, although the three castles that gave the town its name are long gone. Breakfast was quick, and we collectively decided to press on, grateful that the towns ahead would provide new scenery rather than sitting idle in an empty town so early in the day. Along the way, we met Eileen from New Zealand, whose near-perfect Spanish impressed everyone, and she joined us for the rest of the mountain descent. Crissi and Mauro seemed to fly down the trail, while I struggled to keep pace. Midway, I pulled something in my ankle, inflaming a tendon, and had to slow my pace considerably.
Luis caught up with us as we entered Sarria, and I relied on my trekking poles as makeshift crutches. Before ascending the stairs into the city, we stopped at a pharmacy for a compression sock and tendon cream, with Crissi kindly helping translate. Finally, we arrived at a charming albergue along the main road around 5 p.m., relieved to find showers with privacy and a welcoming space to rest. That evening, we shared another family-style dinner while watching the Nigeria vs. Argentina soccer game.
Sarria marks the beginning point for pilgrims who only have a week to walk the Camino. Reaching it makes the finish feel tantalizingly close, yet also makes every step we've taken so far feel deeply rewarding.