Dawn to the Galician Hills
Crissi and I left Villafranca before the sun even considered rising, walking faster than we ever had towards the mountains. Moving through the dark at that hour is magical: the air feels alive, the streets are silent, and the only visible stretch is the path illuminated by our footsteps. We passed through Pereje, where a fellow pilgrim was heading back to Villafranca, clearly having forgotten something. I could relate.
Our route took us under and over highways, along wooded river paths, and past rock faces held in place by cages of wire. We reached Trabadelo early, but everything was closed for the Monday morning, so we pressed on, passing small towns until breakfast at a hotel cafe in Ambasmestas. On the way to Herrerias, we encountered a surprisingly talkative duck, though it wasn't much for conversation. Herrerias marked the last town before the mountain ascent, and we decided to continue without waiting for those behind us.
The climb started on a steep road and transitioned to a dirt path, the steepest portion yet. We left a small stone message for our friend Maddy at a Camino marker, though she never saw it directly, learning about it later through others. The ascent through thick forest protected us from the sun, and we passed many pilgrims before taking a brief rest in La Faba. A local farm family released their bulls and donkey into the streets during our pause, a sight that felt entirely unexpected.
Laguna was our next milestone, and we sped up again, grabbing cokes and watching others arrive at the top. From there, a gradually rising trail led to O'Cebreiro. Along the way, we crossed into Galicia, entering the autonomous region of Santiago de Compostela. The views at O'Cebreiro are breathtaking: rolling hills and mountains stretch as far as the eye can see.
The albergue at O'Cebreiro is basic. Showers lacked curtains, beds were stacked close together, and the town itself felt touristy with gift shops and a small museum church. Once everyone arrived, we grabbed drinks together and shared stories. Luis had the toughest journey, navigating three major hills and bushwhacking his way after a wrong turn. Dinner was simple, and we hoped the municipal albergue wouldn't be too stuffy overnight.