Stones, Hills, and Templar Tales
Watching the sunrise is an effortlessly beautiful experience. It only takes a few minutes, but it can feel like an eternity. Waking up early has become second nature for our group, originally a strategy to avoid the hottest parts of the day, but now simply the rhythm of the Camino. Today's journey would take us past Cruz de Ferro, home to a growing pile of rocks that carries deep symbolic meaning for pilgrims.
Cruz de Ferro sits atop a hill, and pilgrims traditionally leave a small stone there to symbolize mental or emotional burdens. I quickly added my own rock to the pile, though it didn't feel as momentous as I had expected. The paved road led us to the cross, but the trail continued over the hill and down the backside, a slow and awkward descent reminiscent of early days on the Camino. The knee brace I was wearing proved its worth immediately.
Our path took us through rolling green hills that gradually transformed into rocky mountains. We stopped in Manjarín, a small town where an old man claimed to be the last of the Templars. His humble stone home, partly carved into the rock, was adorned with fascinating artifacts, offering a glimpse into a storied past. Breakfast followed in El Acebo, though a minor seating dispute taught us quickly that shade isn't always free.
After nearly all downhill walking for another hour and a half, we reached a town with a cold river, perfect for resting our feet. A short walk later brought us to Ponferrada, where the heat was relentless and the albergue offered little relief. Despite the stifling conditions, we managed to get laundry done, buy ingredients for dinner, and take a tour of the restored Templar Castle. Walking through its rooms and passages gave a sense of history and scale, even if the interiors were mostly props.
A small café outside the castle offered a brief respite before we retreated to the albergue for reading, chatting, and a homemade meal. The combination of sun, hills, history, and camaraderie made the day exhausting yet deeply rewarding. Even in the heat, the Camino continues to surprise and challenge, one step at a time.