Up Stone to Foncebadón
Sleep was elusive in the hot, stale attic dormitory. The faint echoes from the bathrooms below forced us to close the door, cutting off the only airflow that kept the room tolerable. Two small gable windows barely helped, and by 6 a.m., vibrations from a nearby pillow pulled me out of what little rest I had managed. Gear packed and ready, I joined the others in the landing outside our room and we quietly roused the rest of the building as we prepared to leave.
Without breakfast available at the albergue, we headed out into the early morning streets, making a quick stop at an ATM before walking past the cathedral and out of the city. A tree-lined road led us over a highway toward Murias de Rechivaldo, before farm fields stretched ahead toward Santa Catalina de Somoza and our breakfast at Albergue El Caminante. White gravel paths ran alongside black roads, bordered by green trees and patches of rock, forming the landscape for most of our morning.
A surprising encounter awaited at a small turn into the woods. A man dressed as a knight in chainmail offered donations for Asociación Gaudisse, complete with a tame hawk perched nearby. Each of us took a turn meeting the bird, marveling at its calm demeanor. After this playful detour, the path led uphill through uneven earthen trails and the trees, eventually bringing us into Rabanal del Camino. Here, persistence paid off as we discovered The Green Garden, a shaded oasis with chaise lounges, friendly dogs and cats, and cheap ice cream. While tempting to camp here under the stars, the outdoor bathroom convinced us otherwise.
The next leg of the walk was a steep scramble over rocks and rough terrain, which Cerstin aptly dubbed "Auf Stein," meaning up stone. The sounds of the nearby road were a reminder that nature's serenity was fleeting, yet the small shelter with a natural fountain offered refreshing relief. Hours later, we reached Foncebadón, a town of crumbling ruins alongside new construction, a reminder of the Camino's enduring revival. The Druid-themed albergue welcomed us, reuniting us with friends we had lost along the way.
Dinner was a simple burger across the street, while the World Cup played on and clouds obscured the sunset. Standing on the grassy hill behind the albergue, watching the towns we had passed through light up, was humbling. Thoughts turned to tomorrow and the Cruz de Ferro, where pilgrims leave stones symbolizing burdens carried since the start of the Camino. The anticipation of sunrise and the ritual of release made the climb worth every exhausting step.