From León to Casa de Jesus: Fields, Friends, and a Swimming Pool
Creaking beds and rustling backpacks served as an early morning alarm, and there was no snooze button in sight. We had been letting ourselves sleep in lately, but there was no complaint as we went through the usual routine: pack bags, grab toast and jam, brush teeth, and head out. Crissi was the last to join us in the courtyard, and soon we were walking.
Stone streets glistened in the rising sun as we passed the cathedral, stopping quickly for coffee before leaving the old city center behind. It took most of the morning to make it out of León. The Way led us past scenic landmarks toward the Plaza de San Marcos and across the Rio Bernesga, before transitioning through industrial areas with fields of weeds opposite gray buildings. After a short uphill stretch along a busy highway, we finally reached Virgen del Camino, hungry and ready for a small roadside bar.
For the day, we picked up a new companion, Kim from Australia, and faced a choice: stick to the highway or take the traditional scenic route. Memories of sunburns and warnings from other pilgrims made us hesitate, but the scenic route won out. It led us across scraggly patches of earth, under a highway underpass, through Fresno del Camino, and eventually into Oncina. There, a small church and a fountain offered a welcome break before the dirt path opened into fields surrounded by vegetation.
The flat fields of the scenic route still had plenty to offer. Gently rolling terrain and clusters of green trees kept the walk interesting. The red dirt that had accompanied us for days was ever-present, but the sky was empty and the heat had yet to peak. Along the way, a spare pair of shoes on a trail marker caught my attention, but practicality won over curiosity. Chozas de Abajo appeared in the distance, providing a much-needed break at its only open establishment.
While in town, I ran into Drew, whom I had met briefly in Pamplona, and soon after, Cerstin from Germany joined us. The conversation flowed as we discussed politics, culture, and Camino experiences. When it was time to pick an albergue, Casa de Jesus stood out with its swimming pool, a perfect respite from the relentless sun. After shopping for dinner, we sat together with other pilgrims, laughing over differences in culture, animal noises, and Camino stories.
The day ended with a refreshing swim, followed by a shared dinner of salad, pasta with capers, and bread. Watching the gray clouds build in the distance, we prepared ourselves for another 30+ kilometer day. Despite the challenges and the heat, it felt comforting to see a table of friends slowly turning into family on this journey.