Crossroads and Goodbyes
I woke to the sound of a rooster and the wind whipping across the exposed country road. Breakfast at the Albergue was a simple but filling serving of eggs and toast, my first homemade meal on the Camino, and a comforting start to the day. Once fueled, we set off on foot for Atapuerca, making a quick stop at a café for a small second breakfast before tackling a hill near the excavation site. At the top, a tall wooden cross overlooked the rolling fields, and a stone arrow pointed the way toward Burgos. Ahead, a silent spiral maze drew our attention, and we each took turns walking toward its center, a small wooden cross marking the goal. The calm simplicity of it was almost meditative.
Reality called soon enough, as Burgos waited 17 kilometers down a steep descent. The walk was long and intense, with nearly 14 kilometers without a proper stop, yet the countryside scenery kept spirits high. Passing through villages and wide, cultivated fields, we finally approached the outskirts of the city. The route took us past a small airport and factory zones, and we navigated a tricky underpass under the highway before finally reaching the river, where a shaded bench became our lunch spot. Bread, chocolate, and cheese restored energy while familiar pilgrims passed by, sharing friendly nods and smiles.
The riverwalk carried us into historic Burgos, a longer stretch than expected. We decided to upgrade for the night, booking a private room at Hostel Burgos for four of us. My first night without earplugs. After the usual laundry and shower routine, I headed to the cathedral. Its exterior was stunning, though the interior felt more like a museum, and I soon rushed to the Museum of Human Evolution to meet Steve and Shelby. The exhibits were fascinating, and the hands-on learning from Atapuerca the previous day made it even more vivid.
Evening brought the rest of our Camino friends together. We found a tapas bar in the town square where each drink came with small bites, and shared laughs over several rounds of beer. Conversations drifted to taking a rest day, but I had to keep moving in order to finish on schedule. Saying goodbye was harder than I expected. After two weeks and nearly 300 kilometers of walking together, the impact of these companions had grown deeper than I anticipated. Each left a mark, and the thought of not seeing them again tugged at me.
As night fell, I pushed those thoughts aside and focused on the road ahead. Tomorrow promised a 30-kilometer journey to Hontanas, a new day filled with familiar trails, unknown landscapes, and fresh experiences waiting just beyond the horizon.