Rain, Ruins, and Rolling Fields
I woke early to the stirring of fellow pilgrims, finding both neighboring bunk beds already empty. Crissi had left too, likely with the first wave of walkers, and I missed the chance to say goodbye. My shoes were still soaked from yesterday, but after clearing out the newspaper I had stuffed inside, I packed up and headed toward Tania and Shelby. The rest of the group had stayed at the first Albergue outside of town.
By seven, Tania, Shelby, and a new pilgrim named Steve had finished breakfast and we were on the road toward Agés. A constant drizzle accompanied us, and Steve, without a raincoat, improvised one from garbage bags. After Tosantos, the others needed a break, so I pulled ahead, navigating mud-soaked paths and rain-filled landmines through Villambistia and Espinosa del Camino. Peanuts from yesterday's hike provided a brief snack, though they were quickly discarded.
Villafranca Montes de Oca, once a Roman city named Auca, offered a welcome reprieve with a truck-stop style diner. I devoured half a massive sandwich and saved the rest for later. The way out of town led through steep, muddy woods, where the uphill slog was mostly lonely but softened by earthen trails. The monastery at San Juan de Ortega offered old-world charm and the faint smell of damp wood, and I briefly considered staying there before pushing onward.
Emerging from the forest, I encountered a solitary tree marked with a yellow arrow. Beyond it stretched one of the most breathtaking views I had ever seen on the Camino. Fields rolled out in every direction, making me wonder how anyone could ever choose just one village to call home. Tania, Shelby, and Steve arrived, and we sat together, enjoying the sun and letting our laundry dry while snacking on chocolate.
The day's adventure included a detour to Atapuerca, where pre-historic excavations revealed hidden treasures of ancient humans. Steve, a Spanish teacher, translated the guide's stories and shared fascinating details about the site. Returning by bus felt strange, watching pilgrims walk past us on the road, yet the experience was well worth it.
The evening ended with a home-cooked meal from the hospitalarios, wine, laughter, and stories. After a day of rain, mud, and picture-perfect scenery, it felt incredible to share the trail with friends. Tomorrow promised a walk to the city of Burgos, and perhaps the last time I would see many of the companions I had met along the Camino.