Rain, Ruins, and New Friends
I left Santo Domingo de la Calzada at seven in the morning, walking alone. I can't remember exactly why. Perhaps I was eager to start, maybe the others were sleeping in, or the forecast of heavy afternoon rain pushed me forward. The stage was meant to be short, and I could have slept longer, but the sun was already up, hidden behind clouds, as I stepped out into the fields.
Green farm fields stretched on either side, familiar from yesterday's walk. I kept my head down and focused on each step, quietly hoping that my knee would improve on its own. Granon passed without pause, then Redecilla del Camino, and before I knew it, I had left Basque territory and entered Castilla y Leon, the widest region on the Camino.
After a quick break in Redecilla, I passed through Castildelgato, noticing an old gate guarding a field. I wondered what it had protected long ago. Viloria de Rioja came next, where I chatted briefly with a fellow pilgrim I had seen in Santo. They were carrying a MacBook, using a porter service, which explained how they managed the extra weight. I stopped briefly at the open Albergue but decided not to linger, choosing instead to keep moving.
As soon as I left Viloria, the blue sky returned and rolling green hills appeared in every direction. The cultivated slopes stretched to the top, almost making me miss a step. I arrived in Villamayor del Rio shortly after, pulled out some peanuts, and readied my rain jacket. I avoided the poncho, a choice I would soon regret. Not long after leaving, the first raindrops fell, and then it poured. My lower half was soaked through, though thankfully the supplies in my bag stayed dry.
An hour later, I reached Belorado, carrying enough water in my shoes to fill a small bottle. The Municipal Albergue wasn't open yet, so I waited with other soaked pilgrims. After the rain let up, I explored the village before grabbing lunch at a small, dimly lit restaurant. The paella and wine were excellent, and the World Cup played on the TV. Back at the Albergue, I met my bunk mate, Crissi, who immediately appreciated my outlet extension cord.
After a nap, Crissi and I wandered through the ruins of a church and up to the castle ruins on the hill, where the view of Belorado was incredible. Dinner at the Albergue introduced me to more pilgrims, including two Texans who quickly became friends. What began as a damp, solitary walk ended with new companions, good conversation, and a sense of anticipation for tomorrow's 30-kilometer trek to Ages, with a forecast promising no rain in the afternoon.