Fields, Wine, and Music
Another calm morning greeted us on the Camino, cloudy skies overhead as we retraced our steps from the previous day. With the Ega River at our backs, we walked along dirt paths lined with vine-covered stone walls. A fork in the road presented a choice: left for a shorter hike, or right for a longer one. We went right, drawn by the promise of the wine fountain in Irache and find it we did. Free red wine flowed from a spout at the winery, an indulgence at 7:30 in the morning that left our lips stained purple. Refreshed and slightly tipsy, we returned to the path and pressed on toward Monjardin.
The trail led us through forests, up and down hills, humidity rising as the pyramid-shaped Monjardin mountain grew larger with each step. From hilltops, we glimpsed an endless patchwork of green fields, red rooftops, and a sky trying to pierce the gray clouds above. A light drizzle fell as we paused in Azqueta, refreshing and cool, before reaching Villamayor de Monjardin. There, a medieval fountain provided shelter and water as we prepared for a 12-kilometer stretch with no shade or water.
After an hour of rough, muddy paths, the hills opened into fields of green and yellow, and the gray clouds began to disperse. Sunlight brightened the landscape, revealing a dirt path that split the fields down the middle. In the distance, a small food stand played Mexican music, offering a momentary distraction before the long, uninterrupted march toward Los Arcos. To keep my mind engaged, I popped in headphones, and music carried me forward. A few songs, like "Maps" by Handsome Ghost and "Full Release" by Little Monarch, grabbed me completely, pulling me into the moment as the fields, sky, and fellow pilgrims blurred around me.
The dirt paths eventually led us to Los Arcos, a charming village lined with farms. We skipped the smelly farm-adjacent albergue and continued on toward Torres del Rio. Early Camino life meant we hadn't yet learned the rhythm of small Spanish towns, but the clean stone streets and beautiful church in Los Arcos made the pause worthwhile. Though Torres del Rio lay just a half kilometer further, the group collectively decided to stop at Sansol, a small village with a Moroccan-themed albergue and breathtaking views. That evening, we enjoyed a delicious tajine dinner and cooled our feet in the courtyard's icy pool, a small but perfect slice of bliss.
Blue skies and rolling fields stretched before us, finally the scenery I had been hoping for since day one. Tomorrow promised Logroño, and with it, the challenge of walking into a larger city. For now, the Camino rewarded us with flat paths, warm sun, and a sense of quiet contentment that only comes from moving steadily through beautiful landscapes.