Fields and Quiet Streets
The storks in the bell tower of the church next to the albergue were still asleep as the sun rose, casting a warm glow over the city. I set out ahead of the others for a quiet walk through the narrow stone streets of the old city, eventually reaching the east end of the queen's bridge that led out of town. On the far side, green-covered hills stretched into the distance, contrasting sharply with the stone streets behind me. I paused to take it all in, but familiar voices called my name. Tania, Shelby, and Alex were crossing the bridge, and I asked to join them for the day. They would become my Camino companions for the next several days.
Autumn-colored fields greeted us as soon as we left the bridge, and the terrain remained relatively flat after crossing the highway that separated the last hills from the next village. A short detour through the village brought us to gently rolling fields of grain, small hills, and patchworks of farms. Low stone walls bordered the trail as it snaked past groves of trees, guiding us toward breakfast in Cirauqui. The medieval hilltop city rose above the fields with walls at its base and roads that wound in every direction.
After breakfast, we continued alongside a highway, passing under bridges, through valleys, and even a cat perched precariously on a fence. An hour later, we entered Villatuerta and paused at the Plaza Mayor to rest. Once the others arrived and our bellies were full, we left for the evening's destination. Beyond the town, a lone mountain seemed to watch over us as we walked through empty fields, taking the long route around a small church standing in the middle of the landscape. The dirt path gradually resolved into the road leading into Estella.
On the outskirts of the city, a massive half-ruined church caught my eye. I photographed its smoothly rounded pillars through the gate before rejoining the group near a town map. We debated whether to keep walking or stay in Estella. Though we had arrived early, the albergue we initially found was unwelcoming, so we turned back into the old city, tucked behind stone walls and tightly packed houses. Our beds overlooked the street from a second-floor balcony, offering a peaceful view.
With the day mostly done, we headed across the street to a bar for snacks and drinks. An afternoon nap followed, with the sound of a Spanish guitar drifting up from the streets below. Later, we played card games, enjoyed calimochos, and had a quick pizza dinner. It had been a relatively uneventful day, but full of calm and charm. Tomorrow promised walking through rolling fields under clear blue skies as we made our way to Los Arcos.