Reflections on the Camino
Mornings in Pamplona had a calm, peaceful rhythm that I could get used to. With the streets empty, I set out ahead of the others to explore parts of the city I hadn't seen yesterday. Only a few pilgrims passed in the opposite direction, heading toward the next stage of the Camino. The city square was quiet, but as I ventured outward, I found bustling streets filled with early activity. I admired the architecture and strolled through several parks, though the arena where the bulls run was off-limits, leaving me slightly disappointed. Soon I returned to the Albergue to meet up with the group.
Leaving Pamplona was quicker than entering it, and before long, the city was behind us. We zigzagged through small and large parks before returning to the open countryside, where green fields stretched endlessly beneath clouds that seemed to reach for the hills. Rainbows appeared at the edges of the clouds, a magical backdrop to the gravel paths snaking through forests, rivers, and open fields. The terrain gradually rose toward Zariquiegui, the last stop before crossing the windy Alto de Perdon.
I caught up with Tania, Shelby, and Alex in Zariquiegui, and after a short break, we slowly made our way up the mountain. Along the ascent, we leapfrogged each other, pausing to take photos or waiting for others to catch up. The summit rewarded us with expansive views of the countryside in all directions, though the wind made it feel even more remote. The descent was slow and challenging, and once we reached flat ground, I found myself entirely alone.
Alone on the trail, I began talking to myself, processing thoughts I had never spoken aloud. I reflected on why I was walking the Camino, my career dissatisfaction, sources of joy, and the emptiness I often carried. It was liberating to give voice to these hidden thoughts and to confront things I hadn't fully acknowledged. The walk became meditative, a conversation with myself, with the Camino as the silent witness.
Eventually I met up with the group again near Urtega, enjoying lunch at a small Albergue in the sun. We spread out again through Obanos before arriving in Puente la Reina. At the edge of town, a historic Albergue caught our attention, and after some debate, we settled at Albergue Reparadores, one of the oldest on the Camino. Some of us cooked dinner, while others shared what they had. Though the day's terrain and distance were manageable, the back-to-back walking left my feet feeling it. Tomorrow promised flatter paths toward Estella, a welcome change.